Next Videos will cover communication/setup procedure for EG46500EX in split phase operation. 0:00 Initial Assembly 0:58 Connection Check And Power Up 1:40 Connecting to Solar Power System 2:49 Pre-Charge Circuit Procedure 4:14 Current Test 6:05 Conclusion Server Rack Battery Parts List (affiliate links): Budget LiFePO4 Server Battery: signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN Server Rack: signaturesolar.com/eg4-battery-rack-6-slot/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN EG46500EX: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6-5k-off-grid-inverter-6500ex-48/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN DIY System Blueprints: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-all-in-one-buyers-guide.html DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/39Pptdg
Have you thought about doing a video with a Inverter generator backup wired to run by sensing voltage from the dry contacts? Also noticed your dip switches are set the same.. Are they functional?
Hey Will, If you can, please share the love and hook this bad boy up to an MPP 6048WP after you dial in the EG4. If it can't be done, please enlighten us as to why.
Hey Will. Can you make a video regarding having multiple grid tied single fase inverters with battery connected to the same installation. Are they able to work together, when each one of them are trying to compensate the usage on all phases?
Great videos for the EG46500EX... I was wondering... If Signature Solar was to bring out a grid-tied and UL listed inverter solution, would it make you interested in grid tie applications/videos?
I just built a whole house system for my Dad in New Mexico, using the same batteries and rack. We used the growwatt 12KW inverter and 7 kw solar panel array. The batteries are very heavy.I did not have a lifting device. I will next time. The system turned out great I am very impressed with the batteries.
@ Dave Fields Could you tell us what you paid for each individual battery pack and the price of the rack? Also where did you purchase the batteries from? What did you pay for your 12K growatt and where did you get it?
I've now built over 120kWh of storage for my house/workshop from raw cells, but got 12 of these for backup in my office. Prices keep compressing and making these more and more compelling and it was worth the ease of setup and compact package of these along with the UL listing for insurance purposes. I appreciate your videos both quality, quantity, breadth and thoroughness.
Thank you for sharing your experience with building storage for your house/workshop! It's great to hear that you found the ease of setup and compact package of the EG4 30 kWh LiFePO4 Server Rack Battery worth it. Have you considered checking out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It offers massive capacity, fast recharging, versatile sockets, and comprehensive protections. It could be a great addition to your backup power setup. Just a suggestion for fellow outdoor enthusiasts and RV lovers like yourself. Happy camping and powering up!
That is amazing. I built a backup system in the late 90s using 24 AGM batteries to get the same capacity. This was a literal ton of batteries and took up much more space than that rack.
Thanks for your videos. I have 38- 340watt panels on my roof and 2 enphase battery packs for a total of 20kws. I am about to receive 10 more 400w panels and another 10Kw enphase battery. I wish i had the knowledge to do it myself so i wouldn't have to over pay for the system.
I just saw pictures at your website this beautiful powerful systems , please post a video how you built from scratch ...This is so clean the whole connections on investers
Well done Will. I think for the price and decent quality the eg4 is one of the best options. The fact they have matching and listed inverters helps too.
I would love to see a video describing the whole 'charge the capacitor in the inverter' subject and why it is important to consider, and the thinking behind the battery and inverter power up and the battery hookup sequence...
I am building the same battery rack that you show in this video, but with four batteries. I’m glad I watched your video as I will now flip one of the bus bars as you suggest. I purchased a resistor and was planning on doing the pre-charge procedure you described in your video of a couple of years ago and was unaware that these eg4 batteries had a pre-charge function baked in. This video is the only place I have found that mentions this and how to use it. Is there any other documentation from eg4 that describes this? Wondering how you knew…
@@michaelstillerdesign4773 < I agree 100%, I knew they had a pre-charge resistor so didn't use my resistor but did not know the proper sequence of using it, cut battery breaker on and my 125vdc breaker on and it shut all my batteries down. How does SS sell this stuff without proper documentation!
I have seven of the original face EG 4 batteries meaning that the breaker is located in the center of the face. I would say they're not 'cheap' but that James at Signature Solar has made them relatively inexpensive... They're very well made and I am not the only one that sees how much of a bargain that they truly are for DIY solar.
I can understand the benefit of connecting the main connections to the batteries on a diagonal when not using a bus bar, i.e. when jumpering from one battery to the next, as each connection adds resistance to the circuit. But surely the resistance across the buss bar must be minimal with negligible current loss over its length (1m?), and if so, connecting the main cables to the same side (top or bottom) of the bus bars will have no real-world negative effect on the batteries.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 Do you mean the Current Sharing videos? Yes, there was a large difference because the batteries were interconnected to each other with jumpers. Each connection adds to the resistance and thus the last battery would suffer if the connections were not diagonal. However, when using a bus bar you are not adding the resistance of all the connections as each battery is directly connected to the bar. Instead, the only difference in current flowing to each battery is the resistance of the copper bus bar itself (which is near zero).
@@roykaplan the resistance of copper is always the same per unit area of conductor thickness. whether you have a 1awg cable or busbar with the same thickness, the resistance is the same, and it's never near zero. Even 0.1% equivalent resistance will still result in the first battery being "prioritized" or drained first.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I just checked, the resistance of 1awg copper cable is 0.126 ohms per 1000 feet at room temperature. That translates to about 0.0004 ohms resistance across the one meter bus bar. At these currents that's pretty negligible. You will have more resistance variance at each connection screw terminal.
@Jasonoid - Solar Power, Batteries, and More! maybe in summer but not in winter. I'm trying to find a solution for my winter power needs that doesn't require a generator. I think over sizing my solar array might do the trick but idk.
How far north are you? Here in NH my array produces about 4X more energy in June that it does in the dead of winter, its a big difference. We have net metering so I sized it to generate credits in the summer that I could spend in the winter and be mostly neutral, maybe a little positive over the whole year. Its a fairly big system at 12kW but its not optimally placed. Still, these new generation of panels really produce a lot of juice so I think you could definitely brute force it depending on how far north you are
Always enjoy watching your videos. Very informative. We've been wanting to incorporate a battery backup in our new construction and after living through 3 days of power outage and running extension cords from our generator to the fridge/freezers, I'm even more convinced. I like how you provide the Kw/h info but for the less technically inclined, it would be cool if you did a video on how big a system needs to be (ie how much kw/h) we need to keep the main systems (lights, fridges, water pump for well, etc) up and running and how much kw/h would be needed per day. i realize every home will vary but I'm hoping there's an average we can go by. Keep your videos coming! Love them.
Do you have have a "smart meter" supplied by your power company? It allows you to check your power usage for the last couple of years all the way down to the hour of each day! It is the greatest tool to use for planning your system.
Now we need split-phase rack-mounted inverters. 8 more Us on that rack, and an entire system could fit in it. 60-100A split-phase output right into a panel and your house could be set.
Wow! That’s $9000 worth of just batteries. I built my own battery packs. I used new Lifepo4 32650 6ah batteries from Battery Hookup. My packs are 50P 252ah. I have 2 banks of 16 batteries wired in series at 51.2v each bank. That 25.600kw for under $5000. But to each there’s own. I like building things my own and save money.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 😂 the battery warranty is me, since I put them together. Then I would know how to take it apart and fix it. BMS? I’m using Batrium. Easy to get parts and replacements if needed. I totally understand people just like plug & play. But I like to build it, then if something goes wrong, I would know how to fix it.
Thank you Will for another great video. I see you have two EG46500EX on the wall that you reviewed yesterday. The black just looks awesome on the walls. Solar Signature have outdone themselves with these new inverters. Hopefully they come out with a 12k in the future.
I've been watching your RUclips videos for a few years and find them the most informative on the internet. David Poz did a very comprehensive install of this EG4 rack set-up as well, however, he didn't apply the diagonal configuration method. Did you ask the company why they haven't adjusted the bus bar? Are you planning to put on the door so the 🐱dosen't get ZaPpEd!
Will I love you videos and have learned so much from you. I am preparing to begin assembling my system and looking at your diagram on your wiring here for 2 racks of batteries I'm curious why one set for Battery #1 uses 4/0 copper cable and Battery #2 uses 2/0 copper cable? I have two racks (6 each) of the LiFePOWER 4 batteries for my system, two 6500ex inverters along with the new Eg4 Chargeverter. The 48 solar panels arrive tomorrow. I hope for your reply.
I may have missed it, and you have covered it many times before, but signature solar sends undersized wires for running to the inverter with the racks when you order them and the batteries if you plan on using more than 1 or 2 batteries per rack.
Signature says to turn on batteries one at a time and allow it to go through its start up. Before turning on another. Also batteries have to be within .1 volts
I'm looking forward to seeing the setup/comm settings for the split phase. I ordered all of the components you suggested with a dozen of the CanadianSolar 445W bifacial panels and want to set the SP1 unit to USE so I can forego the comm settings for the EG4 and do away with those error 61 issues. I've yet to charge up the batteries but hope to have everything operating shortly. Just waiting on your settings info to finish the job.
Originally i was considering to go with the buy and use method but looking closer I get more bang for my bucks to build one. Way way more bang for the bucks! 300AH 16S 51.2V with rack, bms and active balancing for up to $1500. Seriously diy is a way to go. Ready to use is 100ah that is 5120Wh up to $1500 VS 300AH that is 15,360 Wh for about the same cost. 3 times the power for about the same cost so it is a no brainer the DIY method is the better option. Now i have not mentioned for the DIY method i could pick and choose for the bestter bms and balancer (active balancer with 2a or more) which means it is even better for certain with the DIY. There is NONE of the ready to go server rack that has active balancing of 2A or more for that price and God knows what kind of bms they put in there. Who says that ready to go type is better does not know what they are talking about!!!!!! Now my diy method requires understanding of what are buying and know how to search proficiently online and of course some electronic and mechanical knowledges to assemble one. The majority of the public 99% is NOT in the 1% as mine so they go for the easier one. I find assemble battery pack is fun and very easy but then I am NO newbie in this as i have been doing this since 2017. Majority of consumer is NOT so that explains the popularity of the plug and play power pack.
Your videos are amazing! You've mentioned several times about avoiding a ground loop regarding the sub panels which makes complete sense, however, what about grounding the server rack to earth ground? The manual recommends this but I'm questioning this requirement? To clarify, I'm speaking of the grounding lug on the rack, not the negative bus bar!
Neat with the diagonal connection. But why not using a torque wrench to give each rack connection the optimal condition? In tropical areas or subtropics like Florida a bit of conductive grease can prolong the installation!
Will, I love these videos, they are incredibly informative, especially for those of us who are electrically challenged. I have a lot of questions for you, but here is one. Is this an off-grid system only?
I have the same question. I would love to see Will show us a system that can be used with grid 99% of the time but then when needed go off grid when the grid power is off.
@@JaiHenwood that's harder than you think. The issue is that you can't have the system go from off grid to on grid automatically as the phase of the inverter will not match the phase of the grid supply. That's why the most common on grid set up is unusable when the grid connection goes down -- counter intuitive as that sounds. A manual changeover in both directions is probably the best you can do. There are also legal implications in some countries, to protect the grid from rogue solar when it comes back on after an outage. That means that any design Will suggests may not be legal in any other country. Take local advice.
@@JaiHenwood He has video's on on grid systems, keeping in mind on grid means permits, inspections, electricians, and using approved equipment. Doable if you have the budget
I have to say you are actually doing well, sharing knowledge with people but I begin to wonder, what do you do with those batteries you use for demonstration, do you put them in the trash or what.
Great video thanks. Question. When you pre-charge the capacitors to avoid the spark. Why can’t you just turn off the battery breaker when you attach the batteries to the inverter.
These batteries have the pre-charge function built-in already, no need to use an external resistor (which must still be used for other batteries) Turning off the breaker means that you're just going to hide the arcing inside the breaker when you turn it on again, this defeats the purpose and can still damage your inverter
This is basically the system I want to put together. Two of EG4's 6500EX inverters, at least three of the sever rack batteries. Just don't know what good UL listed solar panels to get. I want up to 8kW of solar. (Signature Solar doesn't have much of a good selection)
7+ months after receiving a bad 24v battery Signature finally confirmed they received the 24v low voltage since day 1 battery but they don’t know when a replacement will be available. What a nightmare to TRY to deal with them!!
I’m looking for what size cable jumpers are needed to connect the batteries to the bus bars. I’m setting up my system exactly how Will’s system is set up, although I currently have smaller solar array. Only 3300 watts right now. I’m building a cabin and will add panels but for now I just need to run the basics. To keep building inspector off my back over the system, I’m mounting my system on RV. I’ll add solar panels once the buildings are up.
maybe in one of your upcomming videos could you go over how you calculate your hardware requirements for an average home.. I know you use yours for your tesla but more people might want to power a home with a HVAC system AC / Gas Furnace and other appliances and equipment like refrigerator, tv, computer, lighting... how do you add everything up and then decide on how many panels you need and batteries to ensure 100% uptime even under heavy load
The NEC (National Electrical Code in the U.S.) has full information on how to do proper load calculations (which incorporate good safety margins) to determine real-world ACTUAL load demands for an electrical service. There are also several on line load calculators that are excellent. You will need to know square footage of your house/shop, amperage (multiply the current times voltage to get wattage) or wattage draws of ALL appliances and heating/air conditioning equipment, etc. and also current draw on other unusual loads like ev car chargers, well pumps, and so on. Most also ask for data on location and climate to account for heating and cooling average costs. Take the results of the load calculator, add 10 percent and the result in total watts divided by 1,000 will be the inverter capacity minimum size. (Round UP if necessary to the closest available size, NEVER round DOWN.) Example: load calculator total is 13, 450 watts. Divide by 1,000 gives 13.45kw. Inverter would be 15kw single unit or 3 stacked 6kw units. Higher is always ok, but never go lower than the calculated value or you will get system shutdowns at heavier usage.
Look at your power bill. Pick the worst one and add a safety factor if you want to be totally off grid while keeping in mind that winter at northern latitudes is brutal for solar. If you will remain on grid you should size it based on your budget while concentrating on solar over batteries since those will provide the most bang for your buck, especially if you live in a net metering state or a hot state with lots of AC use.
can this be used not for back up only but for say when the solar panels stop producing (or before starting to produce) more power than whats being used ? I'm sick of having to depend on government controlled corporations that could shut us off anytime they want.
Does the PV/batt go thru inverter, then over to Tesla where it converts back to DC? Have you ever measured the loss? Does a Tesla have ability to DC charge? Thanks for sharing
Would you do a video of your favorite set up? I love your videos and have future plans. I want to supply 5 houses. I'll plan the rest later. I'm going to have it installed but I want to make sure that they are doing it properly and not ripping me off
I look at these videos and I feel like 48V is a stop-gap. We'll see inverters and batteries that can run at 100's of volts with safety interlocks (like in automotive) in the next few years. That'll be when I jump in!
@@bradley3549 SolarEdge and Tesla battery systems are already "high voltage". The efficiency goes up with higher voltage, not down. The "correct" DC voltage for conversion to 240Vac is 400Vdc, but there's a 1-2% efficiency hit when doing it from 48V first. The benefit of 48V is that it is considered low voltage by the NEC, so you don't have the massive regulatory overhead when working on it as a layperson - this is a leftover from the analog telephone days.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 That's exactly the point I was making. You reduce part count and increase efficiency as the voltage approaches the peak-to-peak voltage of the AC waveform you are trying to reproduce. The NEC requirements are probably the most interesting part. Though doesn't seem like a real significant issue all said and done if you're doing a grid tie system anyway and have to have the appropriate permits and inspections to do so.
@@bradley3549 no matter what arrangement you end up with, each LFP battery cell is only 3.2V nominal, so you need more cells to reach 400V than you would to reach 48V. Each cell needs to be individually managed by a BMS - so 16x 100Ah cells for 48V 5kW is easier and cheaper than 125x 4Ah cells for 400V 5kW (as an example) All of this complication for a 2% increase in per cycle efficiency isn't worth it at the low end - it's cheaper to just add another solar panel to make up for it.
Question is already placed but I’ll repeat. What will the compatibility of these batteries be with all the other branded 6548 hybrid inverter? I feel a video coming on! Seriously, there are allot of the se inverter s out there and these battery’s are not cheap and cost allot to ship.
What would be the typical location in a house to install? Garage? Would ambient heat be an issue in an unconditioned, uninsulated garage in California? What would one do if the garage is ideal to install but the ambient air is over 113?
Will thanx for your great training. I bought and installed 2nd eg4 life power. Thus morning I turned on signature solars 48 v charger to recharge them but for 3 hours red light flashes. Was all full charged yesterday and OK. Any ideas?
Hi Dear, This is me enayatullah najeeb I am also electrical engineer I follow all your video and it is too useful and bundle of thanks from you to help us. So Dear I have a question I know my question is not belong to Topic but I ask I from Afghanistan 🇦🇫 and you know the voltage is 220v, I moved to Canada 🇨🇦 and the voltage is 120v but unfortunately my computer doesn't connected to charge so what should I do if you give advice Thanks
Very nice, great to see you rotated one of the bus bars. I set my system up with Three EV4 LL on a signature server rack and wired it to a 12K outdoor SOL-ARK inverter. The SOL ARK is a more expensive inverter put it is more a lot easier and less time consuming to wire. Wish you could do a review on the SOL ARK inverters the company is based out of Texas maybe you could arrange for them to ship you one of their new 15 K inverters to set up in your system to see what you think. Thank you for all your videos very helpful.
I've actually looked at those batteries they have the 5-year warranty. The Next Step Up is the 10-year warranty with the digital display. Is it worth the extra money to buy the 10-year guaranteed one?
Absolutely. Solar energy is going to encounter a 13% increase in price by the end of this year in California and other States too follow with a $8.00 dollar per Kwh new tax!!... Widowmaker a man of God. "E Pluribus Unum" D'n Deus Le' Vult!!... industry
both of these batteries would survive 15 years+ at once daily cycling like done with a solar system. Calendar aging would kill them long before cycling does. So if you're looking at only daily cycling at worst, the "extra" money for the LL is wasted.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I've heard a "cycle" means "anytime you discharge and then charge a battery". Does this mean a "cycle" that drops 5% of the kwh and then recharges the 5% kwh back counts as "one" cycle in terms of battery life?
@@dialecticalmonist3405 A cycle is when you have discharged the battery cumulatively by 100%. So if you discharge 25% one day, recharge and then discharge 75% the next. That would count as one cycle.
Was reading the manual to those inverters yesterday. They state you are limited to 150 amps max incoming current. So with two I'm thinking you could only do 300 amps max. Not sure why that is because it only equates to 60 amps max output by my calculations. But then again 12 KW at 240v is 50 amps
Awesome video as usual . I have the same server rack and batteries. I will now flip my bus bar. I am wondering about Will mentioning cycling the batteries down. Should I disconnect my solar until the batteries get down to one light?
I just ordered 3 (24v) of this for my apartment. I Have a Samlex 4024. What settings do you recommend I should set the inverter. It have charger included on the inverter. I charge batteries with grid AC
Can’t stop watching. Don’t even have a solar anything. But I hooked up two 5ton mr cools and am wondering how I figure out what they draw. A clamp meter?
I just may be over thinking this, BUT if the wire distance from the battery lug to the place the wire connects to the bus bar was the same, would your batteries discharge equally? The top positive is 36" and the bottom negative is 36" The bottom positive is 6" and the bottom negative is 36" I guess your just forcing loss to keep things equal.
I would like to run two full size refrigerators a 7cf deep freeze and a commercial sized kegerator in my garage could I get by with one all in one unit and a couple of these batteries? And how much solar input do you recommend? Thx
Using FLIR to double check connections is always a good way to go if you can afford it. If your selling anything like that i would not mind getting it from you, I am down the street here in Murrieta! ;)
Hoping that you still read older comments! I bought two 24v EG4 LiFe PO4 batteries and was wondering why the wires connecting to the busbars were smaller than the wires leaving the busbar to connect to the Lynx Distributor. How do I know how to size the wires running in parallel?
@@coltybambam I did! So, the reason that the wiring going from Battery -> Busbar is smaller than Busbar -> System is because the power draw from each battery is relative to how many batteries you have. Say you have a system that draws 300a total at 24v. You'd need a minimum Wire Gauge of 2/0 which can handle all 300a of power draw. This 2/0 cable is what would be from busbar -> system. However, because you have two batteries, the power draw is divided equally between each battery, meaning each would only be 150a. This means that from batter -> busbar, you can have thinner wire (in this case, 2AWG) because there would (or should) never be 300a running through a single battery's wire at any point. This logic expands to any amount of batteries. If you have 4 batteries, then battery -> busbar only needs 6AWG minimum because each individual battery is only providing 75a
DO you use any communications to the charger/discharger/inverter or do you just charge and discharge with the rated voltages and let the BMS in each battery handle the rest ?
How long would it take me to fully charge 6 of these server rack batteries using this exact setup with a large generator? I plan to go solar but I want to build the storage/backup portion first.
Can you hookup a generator to charge the batteries as a backup if there are multiple days of rain? Would it be better to just power the house off the generator?
If I have 3 6500w inverters and 3 48v batt cabinets how would you suggest connecting the batteries and inverters so each inverter could utilize the entire 3 cabinet batt system?
I didn't get from the video whether the EG4 has an inbuilt precharge circuit / inrush limiter? Or does the BMS they use have one? The batteries not outputting the same current make me lean towards building a 30kWh 2p16s configuration to avoid having to deal with the shenanigans of parallel batteries. It's also cheaper :)
Could i pick your brain for a moment? How did you learn so much about solar/ wind turbine, etc?? I live off grid in an rv. The solar system i have is small but i couldn't afford anything else. Im disabled and paid a company for my setup. I, unfortunately, was new to the area and didn't know it rained so much. I live on a mountain and is very windy here in NC. I live on property that is unrestricted. What i currently have are 12 solar panels, 200w each. My inverter is 5000w, peak 9000 AMPINVT. I have a midnite classic 250cp charge controller. And 48w 300 ah mighty max agm batteries. We never have power and we converve it and usually go all night without power (we are not grid tied). I would like to set up a wind turbine but am not sure if it can be tied into my current system or would i have to run the wind turbine into another midnite classic charge controller with dedicated batteries? I would rather have lithium life po4 batteries but i don't know how many i would need and what size wind turbine to get? I live in a 2004, 44 ft fifth wheel. Will or if there is anyone on here who can point me in the right direction, i would do greatly appreciate it!! God bless!
Next Videos will cover communication/setup procedure for EG46500EX in split phase operation.
0:00 Initial Assembly
0:58 Connection Check And Power Up
1:40 Connecting to Solar Power System
2:49 Pre-Charge Circuit Procedure
4:14 Current Test
6:05 Conclusion
Server Rack Battery Parts List (affiliate links):
Budget LiFePO4 Server Battery: signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN
Server Rack: signaturesolar.com/eg4-battery-rack-6-slot/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN
EG46500EX: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6-5k-off-grid-inverter-6500ex-48/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN
DIY System Blueprints: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-all-in-one-buyers-guide.html
DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/39Pptdg
Thank you Will. 🤜🤛 from Wales 🏴.
Have you thought about doing a video with a Inverter generator backup wired to run by sensing voltage from the dry contacts? Also noticed your dip switches are set the same.. Are they functional?
Hey Will, If you can, please share the love and hook this bad boy up to an MPP 6048WP after you dial in the EG4. If it can't be done, please enlighten us as to why.
Hey Will. Can you make a video regarding having multiple grid tied single fase inverters with battery connected to the same installation. Are they able to work together, when each one of them are trying to compensate the usage on all phases?
Great videos for the EG46500EX... I was wondering... If Signature Solar was to bring out a grid-tied and UL listed inverter solution, would it make you interested in grid tie applications/videos?
I just built a whole house system for my Dad in New Mexico, using the same batteries and rack. We used the growwatt 12KW inverter and 7 kw solar panel array. The batteries are very heavy.I did not have a lifting device. I will next time. The system turned out great I am very impressed with the batteries.
Good on you for helping your dad with that. Can you tell me how much it cost?
The 12K Growatt inverter is even more heavy. That thing about killed me 😆
not cheap
@ Dave Fields
Could you tell us what you paid for each individual battery pack and the price of the rack? Also where did you purchase the batteries from? What did you pay for your 12K growatt and where did you get it?
@@bpsbps882 yes great to know thanks for sharing
I've now built over 120kWh of storage for my house/workshop from raw cells, but got 12 of these for backup in my office. Prices keep compressing and making these more and more compelling and it was worth the ease of setup and compact package of these along with the UL listing for insurance purposes.
I appreciate your videos both quality, quantity, breadth and thoroughness.
Thank you for sharing your experience with building storage for your house/workshop! It's great to hear that you found the ease of setup and compact package of the EG4 30 kWh LiFePO4 Server Rack Battery worth it. Have you considered checking out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It offers massive capacity, fast recharging, versatile sockets, and comprehensive protections. It could be a great addition to your backup power setup. Just a suggestion for fellow outdoor enthusiasts and RV lovers like yourself. Happy camping and powering up!
That is amazing.
I built a backup system in the late 90s using 24 AGM batteries to get the same capacity. This was a literal ton of batteries and took up much more space than that rack.
I recommend using a torque wrench to ensure consistency. Great video. Sweet setup! 😎
I thought the same thing, but torque to what specs?
Thanks for your videos. I have 38- 340watt panels on my roof and 2 enphase battery packs for a total of 20kws. I am about to receive 10 more 400w panels and another 10Kw enphase battery. I wish i had the knowledge to do it myself so i wouldn't have to over pay for the system.
Dang how large of a residential house, or this a house and commercial space/shop?
@@wehvacwehvac5612 House, 2500ft. Its all electric. no gas. Pool pump.
I just saw pictures at your website this beautiful powerful systems , please post a video how you built from scratch ...This is so clean the whole connections on investers
Your lift to move the batteries into place is very cool. Saves your back! :-).
That whole system is a thing of beauty. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Well done Will. I think for the price and decent quality the eg4 is one of the best options. The fact they have matching and listed inverters helps too.
I would love to see a video describing the whole 'charge the capacitor in the inverter' subject and why it is important to consider, and the thinking behind the battery and inverter power up and the battery hookup sequence...
I made a whole video on that that I posted some years ago
I am building the same battery rack that you show in this video, but with four batteries. I’m glad I watched your video as I will now flip one of the bus bars as you suggest. I purchased a resistor and was planning on doing the pre-charge procedure you described in your video of a couple of years ago and was unaware that these eg4 batteries had a pre-charge function baked in. This video is the only place I have found that mentions this and how to use it. Is there any other documentation from eg4 that describes this? Wondering how you knew…
@DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse
@@michaelstillerdesign4773 < I agree 100%, I knew they had a pre-charge resistor so didn't use my resistor but did not know the proper sequence of using it, cut battery breaker on and my 125vdc breaker on and it shut all my batteries down. How does SS sell this stuff without proper documentation!
I have seven of the original face EG 4 batteries meaning that the breaker is located in the center of the face. I would say they're not 'cheap' but that James at Signature Solar has made them relatively inexpensive...
They're very well made and I am not the only one that sees how much of a bargain that they truly are for DIY solar.
Dude those inverters look awesome, heavy duty.
I can understand the benefit of connecting the main connections to the batteries on a diagonal when not using a bus bar, i.e. when jumpering from one battery to the next, as each connection adds resistance to the circuit. But surely the resistance across the buss bar must be minimal with negligible current loss over its length (1m?), and if so, connecting the main cables to the same side (top or bottom) of the bus bars will have no real-world negative effect on the batteries.
Will did a video on exactly this a few weeks ago, and the result was visible and measurable.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 Do you mean the Current Sharing videos? Yes, there was a large difference because the batteries were interconnected to each other with jumpers. Each connection adds to the resistance and thus the last battery would suffer if the connections were not diagonal. However, when using a bus bar you are not adding the resistance of all the connections as each battery is directly connected to the bar. Instead, the only difference in current flowing to each battery is the resistance of the copper bus bar itself (which is near zero).
@@roykaplan the resistance of copper is always the same per unit area of conductor thickness. whether you have a 1awg cable or busbar with the same thickness, the resistance is the same, and it's never near zero.
Even 0.1% equivalent resistance will still result in the first battery being "prioritized" or drained first.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I just checked, the resistance of 1awg copper cable is 0.126 ohms per 1000 feet at room temperature. That translates to about 0.0004 ohms resistance across the one meter bus bar. At these currents that's pretty negligible. You will have more resistance variance at each connection screw terminal.
Roy, go to Will's DIY Solar Power Forum, and read the thread titled "Calculation of parallel string battery currents". It's worse than you think.
Great information Will. Thank you! I’m really looking forward to your communication/setup video.
That would run my house for a day and a half, nice setup.
Put up 7000 watts of solar and you're good!
@Jasonoid - Solar Power, Batteries, and More! maybe in summer but not in winter. I'm trying to find a solution for my winter power needs that doesn't require a generator. I think over sizing my solar array might do the trick but idk.
How far north are you? Here in NH my array produces about 4X more energy in June that it does in the dead of winter, its a big difference. We have net metering so I sized it to generate credits in the summer that I could spend in the winter and be mostly neutral, maybe a little positive over the whole year. Its a fairly big system at 12kW but its not optimally placed. Still, these new generation of panels really produce a lot of juice so I think you could definitely brute force it depending on how far north you are
@@myvids4329 Kalispell, Montana
Always enjoy watching your videos. Very informative. We've been wanting to incorporate a battery backup in our new construction and after living through 3 days of power outage and running extension cords from our generator to the fridge/freezers, I'm even more convinced. I like how you provide the Kw/h info but for the less technically inclined, it would be cool if you did a video on how big a system needs to be (ie how much kw/h) we need to keep the main systems (lights, fridges, water pump for well, etc) up and running and how much kw/h would be needed per day. i realize every home will vary but I'm hoping there's an average we can go by.
Keep your videos coming! Love them.
Yes please!
Do you have have a "smart meter" supplied by your power company? It allows you to check your power usage for the last couple of years all the way down to the hour of each day! It is the greatest tool to use for planning your system.
You can look at your utility bill to see how many KWh you are using per day. You can also join his DIYSOLARFORUM to get more help.
Now we need split-phase rack-mounted inverters. 8 more Us on that rack, and an entire system could fit in it. 60-100A split-phase output right into a panel and your house could be set.
I love these batteries. Bought 4 and happy
Hello from Sacramento CA. Well you said you were getting them end and a few hours later boom.
Your info on the EG4 is incorrect. Just talked to signature solar, the EG4 is UL certified, not Listed. Keep up the good work. Great channel.
I wish I had your smarts and skills. Thanks for these vids.
COOL!!! Going to Get a RACK PLUS SOON!!! Thank you for the awesome post - channel ROCKS!!!
Really nice way you explain it all. Thanks Will!
Wow! That’s $9000 worth of just batteries. I built my own battery packs. I used new Lifepo4 32650 6ah batteries from Battery Hookup. My packs are 50P 252ah. I have 2 banks of 16 batteries wired in series at 51.2v each bank. That 25.600kw for under $5000. But to each there’s own. I like building things my own and save money.
Are you willing to offer it complete with functional BMS, 5 year warranty and ease of installation? I've got a big market available.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 😂 the battery warranty is me, since I put them together. Then I would know how to take it apart and fix it. BMS? I’m using Batrium. Easy to get parts and replacements if needed. I totally understand people just like plug & play. But I like to build it, then if something goes wrong, I would know how to fix it.
I have been using their bms software to monitor but was unsure how the reset button worked. thank you.
I would suggest to tork your connects as per manufacturer's spec to ensure proper connection.
Thank you Will for another great video. I see you have two EG46500EX on the wall that you reviewed yesterday. The black just looks awesome on the walls. Solar Signature have outdone themselves with these new inverters. Hopefully they come out with a 12k in the future.
Good timing.
I'm getting my next set of three today.
I've been watching your RUclips videos for a few years and find them the most informative on the internet.
David Poz did a very comprehensive install of this EG4 rack set-up as well, however, he didn't apply the diagonal configuration method. Did you ask the company why they haven't adjusted the bus bar?
Are you planning to put on the door so the 🐱dosen't get ZaPpEd!
...or a child
The bus bar is a solid piece of copper.
It doesn't matter what shape it is in. The electricity doesn't care.
You are right it does look good
Will I love you videos and have learned so much from you. I am preparing to begin assembling my system and looking at your diagram on your wiring here for 2 racks of batteries I'm curious why one set for Battery #1 uses 4/0 copper cable and Battery #2 uses 2/0 copper cable? I have two racks (6 each) of the LiFePOWER 4 batteries for my system, two 6500ex inverters along with the new Eg4 Chargeverter. The 48 solar panels arrive tomorrow. I hope for your reply.
wish I could afford those keep living the dream Will and thanks for all the info and honest reviews
I may have missed it, and you have covered it many times before, but signature solar sends undersized wires for running to the inverter with the racks when you order them and the batteries if you plan on using more than 1 or 2 batteries per rack.
Signature says to turn on batteries one at a time and allow it to go through its start up. Before turning on another. Also batteries have to be within .1 volts
“MASSIVE TOOL” comments aside, I’m really nerding out on your videos, can’t wait to start my solar system.
Learning so much from your videos.
I'm looking forward to seeing the setup/comm settings for the split phase. I ordered all of the components you suggested with a dozen of the CanadianSolar 445W bifacial panels and want to set the SP1 unit to USE so I can forego the comm settings for the EG4 and do away with those error 61 issues. I've yet to charge up the batteries but hope to have everything operating shortly. Just waiting on your settings info to finish the job.
Thanx for all your videos !!!
Originally i was considering to go with the buy and use method but looking closer I get more bang for my bucks to build one. Way way more bang for the bucks!
300AH 16S 51.2V with rack, bms and active balancing for up to $1500. Seriously diy is a way to go. Ready to use is 100ah that is 5120Wh up to $1500 VS 300AH that is 15,360 Wh for about the same cost. 3 times the power for about the same cost so it is a no brainer the DIY method is the better option.
Now i have not mentioned for the DIY method i could pick and choose for the bestter bms and balancer (active balancer with 2a or more) which means it is even better for certain with the DIY. There is NONE of the ready to go server rack that has active balancing of 2A or more for that price and God knows what kind of bms they put in there.
Who says that ready to go type is better does not know what they are talking about!!!!!!
Now my diy method requires understanding of what are buying and know how to search proficiently online and of course some electronic and mechanical knowledges to assemble one. The majority of the public 99% is NOT in the 1% as mine so they go for the easier one.
I find assemble battery pack is fun and very easy but then I am NO newbie in this as i have been doing this since 2017. Majority of consumer is NOT so that explains the popularity of the plug and play power pack.
As always, stellar presentation of technical information. (I wish I could understand it!) I’ll rewatch, as usual… 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼💕
Your videos are amazing! You've mentioned several times about avoiding a ground loop regarding the sub panels which makes complete sense, however, what about grounding the server rack to earth ground? The manual recommends this but I'm questioning this requirement? To clarify, I'm speaking of the grounding lug on the rack, not the negative bus bar!
Neat with the diagonal connection. But why not using a torque wrench to give each rack connection the optimal condition? In tropical areas or subtropics like Florida a bit of conductive grease can prolong the installation!
Will, I love these videos, they are incredibly informative, especially for those of us who are electrically challenged. I have a lot of questions for you, but here is one. Is this an off-grid system only?
I have the same question. I would love to see Will show us a system that can be used with grid 99% of the time but then when needed go off grid when the grid power is off.
@@JaiHenwood that's harder than you think.
The issue is that you can't have the system go from off grid to on grid automatically as the phase of the inverter will not match the phase of the grid supply. That's why the most common on grid set up is unusable when the grid connection goes down -- counter intuitive as that sounds.
A manual changeover in both directions is probably the best you can do.
There are also legal implications in some countries, to protect the grid from rogue solar when it comes back on after an outage. That means that any design Will suggests may not be legal in any other country. Take local advice.
@@JaiHenwood He has video's on on grid systems, keeping in mind on grid means permits, inspections, electricians, and using approved equipment. Doable if you have the budget
A rack mounted inverter seems the next obvious step for the industry. It would save time, space, wiring (losses) and money.
I have to say you are actually doing well, sharing knowledge with people but I begin to wonder, what do you do with those batteries you use for demonstration, do you put them in the trash or what.
Will, would you do a video walking through setting up and managing the batteries and controller through the app for the 3000EHV-48?
Great video thanks. Question. When you pre-charge the capacitors to avoid the spark. Why can’t you just turn off the battery breaker when you attach the batteries to the inverter.
These batteries have the pre-charge function built-in already, no need to use an external resistor (which must still be used for other batteries)
Turning off the breaker means that you're just going to hide the arcing inside the breaker when you turn it on again, this defeats the purpose and can still damage your inverter
This is basically the system I want to put together.
Two of EG4's 6500EX inverters, at least three of the sever rack batteries.
Just don't know what good UL listed solar panels to get. I want up to 8kW of solar. (Signature Solar doesn't have much of a good selection)
7+ months after receiving a bad 24v battery Signature finally confirmed they received the 24v low voltage since day 1 battery but they don’t know when a replacement will be available.
What a nightmare to TRY to deal with them!!
I’m looking for what size cable jumpers are needed to connect the batteries to the bus bars. I’m setting up my system exactly how Will’s system is set up, although I currently have smaller solar array. Only 3300 watts right now. I’m building a cabin and will add panels but for now I just need to run the basics. To keep building inspector off my back over the system, I’m mounting my system on RV. I’ll add solar panels once the buildings are up.
How many panels are connected to each inverters? and how many watts each panels are ?
Great video. Can you please post a link to your yellow cart? Thank you.
maybe in one of your upcomming videos could you go over how you calculate your hardware requirements for an average home.. I know you use yours for your tesla but more people might want to power a home with a HVAC system AC / Gas Furnace and other appliances and equipment like refrigerator, tv, computer, lighting... how do you add everything up and then decide on how many panels you need and batteries to ensure 100% uptime even under heavy load
The NEC (National Electrical Code in the U.S.) has full information on how to do proper load calculations (which incorporate good safety margins) to determine real-world ACTUAL load demands for an electrical service.
There are also several on line load calculators that are excellent. You will need to know square footage of your house/shop, amperage (multiply the current times voltage to get wattage) or wattage draws of ALL appliances and heating/air conditioning equipment, etc. and also current draw on other unusual loads like ev car chargers, well pumps, and so on. Most also ask for data on location and climate to account for heating and cooling average costs.
Take the results of the load calculator, add 10 percent and the result in total watts divided by 1,000 will be the inverter capacity minimum size. (Round UP if necessary to the closest available size, NEVER round DOWN.)
Example: load calculator total is 13, 450 watts. Divide by 1,000 gives 13.45kw. Inverter would be 15kw single unit or 3 stacked 6kw units. Higher is always ok, but never go lower than the calculated value or you will get system shutdowns at heavier usage.
Look at your power bill. Pick the worst one and add a safety factor if you want to be totally off grid while keeping in mind that winter at northern latitudes is brutal for solar. If you will remain on grid you should size it based on your budget while concentrating on solar over batteries since those will provide the most bang for your buck, especially if you live in a net metering state or a hot state with lots of AC use.
You are the greatest threat this Nation has ever seen!!!
can this be used not for back up only but for say when the solar panels stop producing (or before starting to produce) more power than whats being used ? I'm sick of having to depend on government controlled corporations that could shut us off anytime they want.
Can you use this for an electric vehicle or what do you recomend for that? Excellent video by the way :D
Does the PV/batt go thru inverter, then over to Tesla where it converts back to DC? Have you ever measured the loss? Does a Tesla have ability to DC charge? Thanks for sharing
Another great video, thanks Will! Is it possible to have this set up connect to a transfer switch? As a "back up" whole house generator?
Would you do a video of your favorite set up? I love your videos and have future plans. I want to supply 5 houses. I'll plan the rest later. I'm going to have it installed but I want to make sure that they are doing it properly and not ripping me off
I'd love to see a build of at least one battery in a rack mountable case. For us who want to DIY from the ground up.
I look at these videos and I feel like 48V is a stop-gap. We'll see inverters and batteries that can run at 100's of volts with safety interlocks (like in automotive) in the next few years. That'll be when I jump in!
You probably won't be able to afford them.
The batteries at crown are over $27K each, the weight is over 1,328 lbs.
@@wehvacwehvac5612 Hypothetically, shouldn't the cost (and efficiency) of inverters go down as the supply voltage approaches the output voltage?
@@bradley3549 SolarEdge and Tesla battery systems are already "high voltage". The efficiency goes up with higher voltage, not down. The "correct" DC voltage for conversion to 240Vac is 400Vdc, but there's a 1-2% efficiency hit when doing it from 48V first.
The benefit of 48V is that it is considered low voltage by the NEC, so you don't have the massive regulatory overhead when working on it as a layperson - this is a leftover from the analog telephone days.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 That's exactly the point I was making. You reduce part count and increase efficiency as the voltage approaches the peak-to-peak voltage of the AC waveform you are trying to reproduce.
The NEC requirements are probably the most interesting part. Though doesn't seem like a real significant issue all said and done if you're doing a grid tie system anyway and have to have the appropriate permits and inspections to do so.
@@bradley3549 no matter what arrangement you end up with, each LFP battery cell is only 3.2V nominal, so you need more cells to reach 400V than you would to reach 48V. Each cell needs to be individually managed by a BMS - so 16x 100Ah cells for 48V 5kW is easier and cheaper than 125x 4Ah cells for 400V 5kW (as an example)
All of this complication for a 2% increase in per cycle efficiency isn't worth it at the low end - it's cheaper to just add another solar panel to make up for it.
Question is already placed but I’ll repeat. What will the compatibility of these batteries be with all the other branded 6548 hybrid inverter? I feel a video coming on!
Seriously, there are allot of the se inverter s out there and these battery’s are not cheap and cost allot to ship.
What would be the typical location in a house to install? Garage? Would ambient heat be an issue in an unconditioned, uninsulated garage in California? What would one do if the garage is ideal to install but the ambient air is over 113?
Great video!! Are the positive and negative cables which run from the busbar to the Inverter connections exactly the same length?
Will thanx for your great training. I bought and installed 2nd eg4 life power. Thus morning I turned on signature solars 48 v charger to recharge them but for 3 hours red light flashes. Was all full charged yesterday and OK. Any ideas?
Hi Dear,
This is me enayatullah najeeb I am also electrical engineer I follow all your video and it is too useful and bundle of thanks from you to help us.
So Dear I have a question I know my question is not belong to Topic but I ask
I from Afghanistan 🇦🇫 and you know the voltage is 220v, I moved to Canada 🇨🇦 and the voltage is 120v but unfortunately my computer doesn't connected to charge so what should I do if you give advice
Thanks
Very nice, great to see you rotated one of the bus bars. I set my system up with Three EV4 LL on a signature server rack and wired it to a 12K outdoor SOL-ARK inverter.
The SOL ARK is a more expensive inverter put it is more a lot easier and less time consuming to wire. Wish you could do a review on the SOL ARK inverters the company is based out of Texas maybe you could arrange for them to ship you one of their new 15 K inverters to set up in your system to see what you think. Thank you for all your videos very helpful.
great educational videos--thank you
I've actually looked at those batteries they have the 5-year warranty. The Next Step Up is the 10-year warranty with the digital display. Is it worth the extra money to buy the 10-year guaranteed one?
Absolutely.
Solar energy is going to encounter a 13% increase in price by the end of this year in California and other States too follow with a $8.00 dollar per Kwh new tax!!...
Widowmaker a man of God.
"E Pluribus Unum" D'n
Deus Le' Vult!!...
industry
both of these batteries would survive 15 years+ at once daily cycling like done with a solar system. Calendar aging would kill them long before cycling does. So if you're looking at only daily cycling at worst, the "extra" money for the LL is wasted.
@@stefanvanzyl9090
I've heard a "cycle" means "anytime you discharge and then charge a battery".
Does this mean a "cycle" that drops 5% of the kwh and then recharges the 5% kwh back counts as "one" cycle in terms of battery life?
@@dialecticalmonist3405 A cycle is when you have discharged the battery cumulatively by 100%. So if you discharge 25% one day, recharge and then discharge 75% the next. That would count as one cycle.
@@MaxCaud
Ok, thank you. That makes sense.
You get all the fun toys.
I only have 1KHw of batteries. There is not a lot of incentive to get more at current prices :/
Great video, Will. How many solar panels and what type should I need to make this a "back up" system for a modern 3000+ square foot home? Thank you
Will, you have come a long way from building batteries to turn on a few lights inside a van!!!
Was reading the manual to those inverters yesterday. They state you are limited to 150 amps max incoming current. So with two I'm thinking you could only do 300 amps max. Not sure why that is because it only equates to 60 amps max output by my calculations. But then again 12 KW at 240v is 50 amps
Awesome video as usual . I have the same server rack and batteries. I will now flip my bus bar. I am wondering about Will mentioning cycling the batteries down. Should I disconnect my solar until the batteries get down to one light?
I just ordered 3 (24v) of this for my apartment. I Have a Samlex 4024. What settings do you recommend I should set the inverter. It have charger included on the inverter. I charge batteries with grid AC
Could you turn off all the battery with the breaker then use one to pre charge the inverters, then turn all the breakers on?
Solar genius
Can’t stop watching. Don’t even have a solar anything. But I hooked up two 5ton mr cools and am wondering how I figure out what they draw. A clamp meter?
I just may be over thinking this, BUT if the wire distance from the battery lug to the place the wire connects to the bus bar was the same, would your batteries discharge equally? The top positive is 36" and the bottom negative is 36" The bottom positive is 6" and the bottom negative is 36" I guess your just forcing loss to keep things equal.
Would love to hear your recommendation for an RV setup.
I have a setup but with different batteries
I would like to run two full size refrigerators a 7cf deep freeze and a commercial sized kegerator in my garage could I get by with one all in one unit and a couple of these batteries? And how much solar input do you recommend? Thx
What are your suggestions for how to incorporate battery storage with solar system that has IQ8 micro-inverters and is grid connected?
Thanks for the info…I have a question..how many Solar Panels or Solar Arrays you need to charge 1 Battery (5kw)?
Thank you sir good videos and explaining.
Using FLIR to double check connections is always a good way to go if you can afford it. If your selling anything like that i would not mind getting it from you, I am down the street here in Murrieta! ;)
Absolutely true!!
How can I order these batteries.... Lovely video. Nice
Hoping that you still read older comments!
I bought two 24v EG4 LiFe PO4 batteries and was wondering why the wires connecting to the busbars were smaller than the wires leaving the busbar to connect to the Lynx Distributor. How do I know how to size the wires running in parallel?
+1 would love to know more about a two battery configuration, and wiring sizing. @Triston, did you figure it out?
@@coltybambam I did! So, the reason that the wiring going from Battery -> Busbar is smaller than Busbar -> System is because the power draw from each battery is relative to how many batteries you have.
Say you have a system that draws 300a total at 24v. You'd need a minimum Wire Gauge of 2/0 which can handle all 300a of power draw. This 2/0 cable is what would be from busbar -> system. However, because you have two batteries, the power draw is divided equally between each battery, meaning each would only be 150a. This means that from batter -> busbar, you can have thinner wire (in this case, 2AWG) because there would (or should) never be 300a running through a single battery's wire at any point.
This logic expands to any amount of batteries. If you have 4 batteries, then battery -> busbar only needs 6AWG minimum because each individual battery is only providing 75a
That’s a nice setup. I’d Love a video to dyi the entire system. Would that system get you off grid with large AC units running in Arizona?
DO you use any communications to the charger/discharger/inverter or do you just charge and discharge with the rated voltages and let the BMS in each battery handle the rest ?
How long would it take me to fully charge 6 of these server rack batteries using this exact setup with a large generator? I plan to go solar but I want to build the storage/backup portion first.
Love yhe videos ,what gauge wire would one use from inverter to sub panel?
Can you hookup a generator to charge the batteries as a backup if there are multiple days of rain? Would it be better to just power the house off the generator?
This is the system I want to charge up my Teslas and run my shop.
I even wire diagonal on my lead acid bank
If I have 3 6500w inverters and 3 48v batt cabinets how would you suggest connecting the batteries and inverters so each inverter could utilize the entire 3 cabinet batt system?
Why would one single battery not work in a golf cart? Other than moisture ?
I didn't get from the video whether the EG4 has an inbuilt precharge circuit / inrush limiter? Or does the BMS they use have one?
The batteries not outputting the same current make me lean towards building a 30kWh 2p16s configuration to avoid having to deal with the shenanigans of parallel batteries. It's also cheaper :)
Could i pick your brain for a moment? How did you learn so much about solar/ wind turbine, etc?? I live off grid in an rv. The solar system i have is small but i couldn't afford anything else. Im disabled and paid a company for my setup. I, unfortunately, was new to the area and didn't know it rained so much. I live on a mountain and is very windy here in NC. I live on property that is unrestricted. What i currently have are 12 solar panels, 200w each. My inverter is 5000w, peak 9000 AMPINVT. I have a midnite classic 250cp charge controller. And 48w 300 ah mighty max agm batteries. We never have power and we converve it and usually go all night without power (we are not grid tied). I would like to set up a wind turbine but am not sure if it can be tied into my current system or would i have to run the wind turbine into another midnite classic charge controller with dedicated batteries? I would rather have lithium life po4 batteries but i don't know how many i would need and what size wind turbine to get? I live in a 2004, 44 ft fifth wheel. Will or if there is anyone on here who can point me in the right direction, i would do greatly appreciate it!! God bless!
some people have problem with dip switches in instructions it gives you some wrong settings